The Noble Potato - part 4

Traditional Boiled Boxty



We used to have a house in Co. Cavan, Ireland, and although traditional Irish food is not usually particularly vegan friendly, we were very fond of the ready made Boxty in the local supermarket. Just a simple potato and flour pancake sold ready to fry, so when I started this series of potato related posts it was one of the first things I thought to include. I was a bit surprised whilst doing the research to discover that the form of Boxty we'd been eating, and indeed making was in fact more of a Scottish recipe than a truly traditional Irish one.

However I was pleased to discover that a more ancient and authentic sounding recipe was available here. And because The Daily Spud is having a St. Patrick's day parade this seemed like the ideal moment to make it and submit it for the show. Of course, it's described as a Hallowe'en recipe and not vegan by nature but what the hell, it's not traditional to eat virulently green cupcakes in Ireland on St. Patrick's day either and at least this is the right culinary background.



Everything seemed to be going rather well. I used some nice floury potatoes, my mash was to die for, the grated spuds were well squeezed and the dough came together with ease. It was even easy to roll out and make the little cakes, with the help of a sharp pastry cutter. I can't see how the lip of a mug would ever cut through raw grated potato even if it was recommended by the Belcoo and District Historical Centre

My boxty cakes, and there were 30 of them, although I didn't try to cook them all at once, rose to the surface of the simmering pot like little clouds and jostled for prime position in the seething waters. It was poetry to behold.



I gently lifted them out and set them to drain on a clean tea towel. They seemed a bit slimy but my heart was still high. All I had to do was split them horizontally and fry them, ready to serve with the BBQ tempeh and mushrooms prepared for our dinner. A sort of full Irish breakfast at supper time.

Such foolish optimism. Split they would not, slice they did not. I quickly rewrote the entry in my head. Make them thinner I was going to say, because cutting's not an option... (update at the end of the recipe!)



So, as you do, I fried them whole. Now, can anything fail to be improved by the addition of hot fat? I can't say these were worse for the event but the end result was by no means improved. From slimy to lightly crisped outsides the internal texture still resembled so much slightly decomposing papier maché, with a gluey and translucent appearance, rather like my oft repeated failures with Swiss Rosti. But these had been boiled for 35 minutes, they couldn't be undercooked.

With the aid of a sharp knife I did manage to divide a couple into untidy slices. Fried, they were just like their thicker brothers but thinner. Not a chance of plucking success from disaster there.

Still, doused in enough ketchup humans can make a meal of almost anything, yes gentle reader, we ate those Boxty cakes and were glad of them, but I really don't know what I'm going to do with the other 24.



1.5 kg peeled potatoes
750g plain flour + some for rolling out
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda

Put half the potatoes on to boil and then when soft, mash or put through a potato ricer.

Grate the other half of the potatoes, squeeze well to remove all the moisture (I wrung mine out in a teatowel)

Mix the mash, grated raw potato, salt, soda and flour well in a big bowl, adding just enough non-dairy milk to bring it all together in a soft dough.

Roll out portions to a thickness, well, I made mine about 1cm thick, perhaps a little thicker would be easier to divide or you could make them about 30mm thick and not bother with the splitting part.

Cut the dough into small cakes about 8-10cm across. A pastry cutter is best but you can use a mug or glass if you don't have a suitable one.

Have a large pan of boiling water ready and drop your cakes into it, one at a time. You can put in about as many as will cover the surface of the water, that was 10 or so in my big 10 litre pot. After a few minutes the cakes will rise to the surface. Allow to simmer for about 35 minutes, occasionally pushing them down to turn them in the water. If you let the water stop boiling they will sink and become (even more) soggy.

Lift them out and allow to drain and cool a bit. Slice them if you can (and need to) then fry in oil, marg or butter until golden. Serve with something well flavoured.

UPDATE - they can be cut but only after they are completely cold and all the surface moisture has dried. I recommend storing them uncovered in a fridge overnight, it seems to improve them substantially but don't whatever you do leave them on paper kitchen towels for any length of time because you'll never separate them later.